Yellowstone · Where to stay

A 1904 log cathedral with a seven-storey lobby and a geyser out the front door. Book thirteen months ahead to the day.

Yellow colonial pile on the lake shore, the park's most elegant room and a sunroom built for a drink at dusk.

North end, open in winter, and elk regularly asleep on the front lawn. Best base for Lamar Valley wolf-watching.

Modern cabins with kitchenettes a few minutes from the west gate — the reliable fallback when the park lodges are full.

Safari tents outside the west gate with wood stoves and no wifi, which is rather the point.