Yellowstone
THE AMERICAS · NATIONAL PARK · GEYSERS
America's first national park sits on top of a live supervolcano, and it shows: half the world's geysers, hot springs the colour of stained glass, and a caldera full of bison, elk, wolves and bears. It is also enormous — the figure-eight loop road is 230km, so plan on distance and pick a gate before you book.
The plan
Grand Prismatic from the overlook
Skip the boardwalk queue and walk the Fairy Falls trail fifteen minutes uphill for the view that actually shows the colours.
Lamar Valley at dawn
The Serengeti of North America. Be there by 6am with binoculars for wolves, bears and thousands of bison.
Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin
The famous one erupts roughly every 90 minutes, but the two-mile boardwalk loop past Castle and Grand is the real show.
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Artist Point for the classic view of the Lower Falls, then hike Uncle Tom's steps down toward the roar.
Mammoth Hot Springs terraces
Travertine steps that change shape year to year, with elk usually lying on the lawns in town.
Book before you fly
Park lodges
Old Faithful Inn and Lake Yellowstone Hotel release thirteen months ahead and the good rooms go the same day.
Winter snowcoach & snowmobile
The interior roads close to cars; guided snowcoach tours book months ahead.
Backcountry & fishing permits
On recreation.gov; the fishing licence is separate and state-issued.
Getting there
Fly Bozeman (BZN)
Ninety minutes to the north gate, the best-served airport with direct flights from most US hubs. Book the car early — Bozeman runs out.
Fly Jackson (JAC) or West Yellowstone (WYS)
Jackson comes in through Grand Teton from the south and is the prettiest arrival; West Yellowstone is seasonal and lands you at the west gate.
Getting around
No public transport inside the park and fuel stops are far apart. Rent a car, allow 45 minutes for every 30km, and expect bison jams.
When to go
Best time to go
Late May to mid-June for baby bison and green valleys, or September for the elk rut, cool air and thinner crowds.
Cheapest months
November and April — most roads shut, but Mammoth stays open and rooms are a third of summer rates.
Priciest & busiest
July and August, when park lodging sells out a year ahead and the Old Faithful car park fills by 9am.
If you've got one day
Morning
Lamar Valley at dawn
Late morning
Grand Prismatic from the overlook
Lunch
Old Faithful Inn Dining Room
Afternoon
Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin
Evening
Dinner at Lake Hotel Dining Room, then Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
If you've got a week
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Old Faithful Inn, and take it slowly — Old Faithful Inn Dining Room for dinner.
Day 2
Grand Prismatic from the overlook.
Day 3
Lamar Valley at dawn. Dinner at Lake Hotel Dining Room.
Day 4
Day trip — Grand Teton.
Day 5
Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin. Wild West Pizzeria & Saloon at some point.
Day 6
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
Day 7
Mammoth Hot Springs terraces. Finish with Ernie's Bakery & Deli.
Staying longer?
Nearby & day trips
Grand Teton
An hour south through the John D Rockefeller parkway and arguably the better mountain range.
Two hours south, the closest real town with restaurants and nightlife.
Bozeman
Ninety minutes north — a college town with good food and the airport most people fly into.
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