The San Francisco table — what to order and where the locals point.
Zuni Café
The roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered an hour ahead, in a wedge-shaped room on Market since 1979.
Swan Oyster Depot
Eighteen stools at a marble counter on Polk since 1912. Cash, crab, and a queue that starts before it opens.
La Taqueria
The Mission burrito argument settled — no rice, dutch-crunch griddled tortilla, on 25th and Mission.
Tartine Bakery
The morning bun and the country loaf that reset American baking. Guerrero Street, expect a queue.
State Bird Provisions
Dim-sum carts of Californian small plates in the Fillmore. Still one of the hardest and best tables in town.