San Francisco
THE AMERICAS · CITY · BAY AREA
Seven miles by seven miles of hills, fog and microclimates, with a bridge at one end that is somehow better than the photographs. San Francisco is a walking city that punishes you for it, a food town that punches far above its size, and the front door to wine country, redwoods and a coastline that runs for a thousand miles. Bring a jacket in July — the fog is not a joke.
The plan
Walk or cycle the Golden Gate Bridge
Rent a bike at Fisherman's Wharf, cross to Sausalito, and take the ferry back past Alcatraz. Half a day, and the best one.
Alcatraz at night
The evening tour has a fraction of the people and the audio guide, narrated by former inmates, is superb. Book weeks ahead.
The Mission
Murals on Balmy Alley, burritos on 24th Street, and Dolores Park on the first sunny afternoon of the week.
Golden Gate Park
Bigger than Central Park — the de Young, the Botanical Garden, a Dutch windmill and bison. JFK Drive is car-free.
Ferry Building and the Embarcadero
Saturday farmers' market, oysters at Hog Island, then the waterfront walk to the Bay Bridge lights.
Book before you fly
Alcatraz
The only official ferry is Alcatraz City Cruises from Pier 33 — booked two to four weeks ahead, and the night tour is the best one.
Muir Woods
Parking and shuttle both require a reservation; there is no walk-in.
Cable cars
No booking, but buy a day pass on the MuniMobile app rather than queuing at the turnaround.
Getting there
Fly San Francisco (SFO)
Thirty minutes from downtown on BART for about $10, with direct flights from everywhere. The bay approach is worth a window seat.
Fly Oakland (OAK) or San Jose (SJC)
Oakland is often cheaper and 40 minutes by BART; San Jose is an hour south by Caltrain and good for Silicon Valley.
Getting around
Muni buses, the metro and BART cover nearly everything, and the cable cars are transport as well as a ride. Parking is expensive and break-ins are common — skip the car in the city.
When to go
Best time to go
September and October — the fog lifts, it's genuinely warm, and the city has its best weather of the year.
Cheapest months
January to March, when it rains and hotel rates fall by a third.
Priciest & busiest
June to August, when it's foggy and 15°C and everyone books anyway.
If you've got one day
Morning
Walk or cycle the Golden Gate Bridge
Late morning
The Mission
Lunch
La Taqueria
Afternoon
Golden Gate Park
Evening
Dinner at Zuni Café, then Alcatraz at night
If you've got a week
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Hotel Drisco, and take it slowly — La Taqueria for dinner.
Day 2
Walk or cycle the Golden Gate Bridge.
Day 3
Alcatraz at night. Dinner at Zuni Café.
Day 4
Day trip — Napa & Sonoma →.
Day 5
The Mission. Swan Oyster Depot at some point.
Day 6
Golden Gate Park.
Day 7
Ferry Building and the Embarcadero. Finish with Tartine Bakery.
Staying longer?
Nearby & day trips
An hour north into wine country.
Ninety minutes south over the hill for the boardwalk and the redwoods.
Muir Woods and Point Reyes
Thirty minutes to old-growth redwoods, ninety to a wild headland and an oyster farm.
The full episode drops on our socials — follow along: