San Antonio
THE AMERICAS · CITY · HISTORY
San Antonio is the oldest and most Mexican of the big Texas cities, built around a river that loops through downtown one level below the streets. Five Spanish colonial missions run south along it — including the Alamo — and together they're a UNESCO site. It's cheaper, slower and warmer than Austin, and the food is better than people expect.
The plan
The River Walk
Twenty kilometres of walkway a level below the streets. Escape the restaurant stretch and walk north to the Pearl.
Mission Trail by bike
Concepción, San José, San Juan and Espada strung along a river path south of downtown. San José is the one to see.
The Pearl
A brewery complex turned food district with a Saturday farmers' market and the CIA's Texas campus.
The Alamo
Smaller than everyone expects and right in the middle of downtown. Go early, then read the plaza.
McNay Art Museum
A Spanish-Colonial-Revival mansion with a strong modern collection and gardens almost nobody visits.
Book before you fly
The Alamo
Free timed entry tickets released two weeks ahead; the guided tours are paid and small.
River Walk boat tours
Buy at the ticket booths rather than through hotels; same boats, lower price.
Fiesta
Late April; the ten-day citywide party fills every hotel.
Getting there
Fly San Antonio (SAT)
Fifteen minutes from downtown with direct flights from most US hubs and Mexico. Rideshare is about $25.
Fly Austin (AUS)
Ninety minutes north with far more international options; the drive down I-35 is easy outside rush hour.
Getting around
Downtown, the River Walk and the Pearl are walkable or a short bike ride. VIA buses cover the missions.
When to go
Best time to go
March to May and October to November — 26°C, everything outdoors works, and the river is at its best.
Cheapest months
July and August, when it's 38°C and humid; hotel rates fall hard.
Priciest & busiest
Fiesta week in late April, when the whole city parties and rooms book out.
If you've got one day
Morning
The River Walk
Late morning
Mission Trail by bike
Lunch
La Panadería
Afternoon
The Pearl
Evening
Dinner at Cured at the Pearl, then The Alamo
If you've got a week
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Hotel Emma, and take it slowly — La Panadería for dinner.
Day 2
The River Walk.
Day 3
Mission Trail by bike. Dinner at Mi Tierra Café y Panadería.
Day 4
Day trip — Austin →.
Day 5
The Pearl. Cured at the Pearl at some point.
Day 6
The Alamo.
Day 7
McNay Art Museum. Finish with Rosario's.
Staying longer?
Nearby & day trips
Ninety minutes north for the music and the barbecue.
Fredericksburg
Ninety minutes north into Hill Country wineries and peach stands.
Gruene
Forty minutes northeast for Texas's oldest dance hall and tubing on the Guadalupe.
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