The Stockholm table — what to order and where the locals point.
Östermalms Saluhall
The 1888 food hall, restored — seafood counters, cheese, smart lunches.
Köttbullar, the real ones
Meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries and pickled cucumber — not the flat-pack version.
Herring in every key
Pickled, mustard, matjes — the smörgåsbord's backbone, best at an old-school källare.
Toast Skagen
Shrimp, dill and mayonnaise on fried bread — invented here and never bettered.
Fika at a konditori
Vete-Katten has done it since 1928 — chandeliers, marzipan, no rush.