A capital built across fourteen islands where you can swim downtown and the metro is an art gallery.
Gamla Stan early
The medieval old town before the tour groups — Stortorget's painted houses at 8am.
Vasa Museum
A 1628 warship raised whole from the harbour. The best museum in Scandinavia, no argument.
Fika properly
Coffee and a kanelbulle, sitting down, twice a day. It's a national institution.
Metro art tour
Ninety stations decorated like caves and galleries — a normal ticket is the entry fee.
Archipelago boat
Vaxholm in an hour, Sandhamn in three; the islands are the city's soul.
Fly into
Arlanda (ARN); Bromma (BMA) is closer for a few regional routes.
From the airport
Arlanda Express in 18 minutes, or the cheaper Flygbussarna coach.
Getting around
Metro, buses and commuter ferries on one SL card; the centre is very walkable.