Lofoten · Food

Air-dried cod on racks since the Vikings — the islands' whole economy in a smell.

The migrating winter cod, poached with liver and roe — Norway's great seasonal dish.

Fiskekrogen and the harbour kitchens do the day's catch.

Arctic gold, in jam and on waffles at every roadside stop.

Restaurants are few and pricey — every rorbu has a kitchen, every village a Coop.