The Florence table — what to order and where the locals point.
Bistecca alla fiorentina
The T-bone by the kilo, blood-rare, shared — Tuscany's ritual splurge.
Panino al lampredotto
Tripe sandwich from a street cart — the workers' lunch that outlived the Medici.
Mercato Centrale
Iron-hall market: produce downstairs, food counters upstairs till midnight.
All'Antico Vinaio
The schiacciata sandwich with the world's longest queue — it moves fast, and it's earned.
Gelato properly
Covered tubs, muted colors, seasonal flavors — the signs of the real thing.