The Renaissance happened in a city you can walk across in half an hour — and it's all still there.
Climb the Duomo at opening
Brunelleschi's dome from inside, then the city from its lantern.
The Uffizi, booked
Botticelli's Venus is worth planning around. Reserve; go late afternoon.
Ponte Vecchio before breakfast
The goldsmiths' bridge belongs to joggers at 7am.
Piazzale Michelangelo sunset
The whole city turns terracotta — arrive 40 minutes early for a spot.
Bistecca alla fiorentina
Ordered by weight, served rare, shared. That's the rule.