A small capital with an enormous literary shadow, a river through the middle and a pub for every mood.
Trinity College & the Book of Kells
A 9th-century illuminated manuscript and the Long Room library above it.
Kilmainham Gaol
The prison where modern Ireland was made — book ahead, it sells out.
Guinness Storehouse
Touristy, yes; the rooftop Gravity Bar view and the perfect pour are worth it.
A proper trad session
Cobblestone in Smithfield or Devitt's — musicians in a circle, no stage, no cover.
Howth cliff walk
A DART train to a fishing village and a two-hour cliff loop with seals below.