Lake Tahoe
THE AMERICAS · SKI · LAKE
The largest alpine lake in North America, 500m deep and clear enough to see thirty metres down, ringed by a dozen ski resorts. The north shore is quieter and more Californian; the south shore has the casinos on the Nevada state line and the biggest mountain. Summer is arguably better than winter — beaches, granite and water at 20°C.
The plan
Palisades Tahoe
The 1960 Winter Olympics mountain, now linked to Alpine Meadows by gondola — the biggest terrain on the lake.
Emerald Bay
The most photographed corner of Tahoe, with Vikingsholm castle down a steep trail and a small island in the middle.
Sand Harbor
Nevada's east shore — granite boulders in turquoise water and the best swimming on the lake. Get there before nine in summer.
Heavenly gondola
Straight up from South Lake Tahoe to an observation deck 800m above the water, running summer and winter.
Kayak or paddle the east shore
From Sand Harbor south past Chimney Beach, over water so clear the boat looks like it's floating on air.
Book before you fly
Emerald Bay & Sand Harbor parking
Both fill by eight in summer; Sand Harbor now takes paid reservations.
Ski passes
Epic and Ikon passes cost far less bought in spring than day tickets at the window.
Getting there
Fly Reno-Tahoe (RNO)
Forty-five minutes to the north shore and the practical choice, with direct flights from most western hubs.
Fly Sacramento (SMF) or San Francisco (SFO)
Two and four hours west respectively over Donner Pass, which can close in a winter storm — check I-80 before you drive.
Getting around
You need a car, and winter tyres or chains from November to April. Resort shuttles cover the ski bases but not the lake circuit.
When to go
Best time to go
July to September for the lake at 20°C and empty trails, or February and March for the deepest snowpack.
Cheapest months
May to early June and October, when the lifts are shut and the lake is cold, and rooms are half price.
Priciest & busiest
Christmas to New Year and Presidents' weekend, when I-80 backs up for hours and rates peak.
If you've got one day
Morning
Palisades Tahoe
Late morning
Emerald Bay
Lunch
Sprouts Café
Afternoon
Sand Harbor
Evening
Dinner at Manzanita at the Ritz, then Heavenly gondola
If you've got a week
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Edgewood Tahoe, and take it slowly — Sprouts Café for dinner.
Day 2
Palisades Tahoe.
Day 3
Emerald Bay. Dinner at Manzanita at the Ritz.
Day 4
Day trip — Truckee.
Day 5
Sand Harbor. Lone Eagle Grille at some point.
Day 6
Heavenly gondola.
Day 7
Kayak or paddle the east shore. Finish with Fifty Fifty Brewing.
Staying longer?
Nearby & day trips
Truckee
Fifteen minutes north, a railway town with the best restaurants in the area.
Reno
Forty-five minutes east for the airport and a surprisingly good food scene.
Four hours south when Tioga Pass is open.
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