Where Montevideo goes after dark — bars, live music and the late ones worth staying up for.
Baar Fun Fun
Tango and live music institution trading since 1895, now at Ciudadela 1229. Book a table, closed Sunday and Monday. Order the sweet uvita.
Choperia Mastra
Uruguayan craft brewery taproom inside the Mercado Agricola. Around ten taps, tasting boards, and food stalls all around it. Open late.
Cerveceria Malafama
Parque Rodo brewpub, and the name most Uruguayans reach for when they say craft beer. Loud, young and unpretentious.
Paullier y Guana
Neighbourhood jazz bar with live sets in the downstairs room and honest food above. Local crowd, fair prices, no dress code.
Phonotheque
The city's serious late club: electronic music, a proper sound system and doors that open when everywhere else is closing. Weekends.