The Edinburgh table — what to order and where the locals point.
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Scotland's maligned masterpiece — try it before you judge it, ideally with a whisky sauce.
The full Scottish
Breakfast with tattie scones, square sausage and black pudding — fuel for the hills.
Whisky flights
From Lowland soft to Islay smoke — the Old Town's whisky bars pour education by the dram.
Leith seafood
Langoustines, oysters and the day boat's catch down by the Shore.
A deep-fried Mars bar
Once. For science.