Istanbul · Food

Grilled fish in bread by the Galata Bridge — Istanbul in one hand.

Meze spreads, grilled fish and rakı — the taverna ritual, best in Beyoğlu's flower passage side streets.

Çiya Sofrası's Anatolian kitchen and the market's pickle shops — worth the ferry alone.

The Turkish spread: cheeses, olives, honey-clotted-cream, endless tea — Van-style if you can find it.

Pistachio baklava from the old masters, künefe molten at the end of the night.