Sun Moon Lake

Gondola from Ita Thao over a ridge to the Culture Village, and the best overview of the lake. Check for monthly maintenance days.

The lakeside path west from Shuishe, about 90 minutes return, ending at the curving Xiangshan visitor centre. Bikes at the pier.

Vast north-shore temple on three terraces, two stone lions at the gate and the full sweep of the lake behind it.

A 700m walk uphill to a 46m tower at the lake's highest point. Ring the bell at the top; the view runs all the way to Ita Thao.

Ferries loop between Shuishe, Xuanguang and Ita Thao. A day pass beats singles and doubles as your transport around the shore.

Nantou Bus 6670 from Taichung HSR station takes about 1h45 to Shuishe pier. Reserve a seat at weekends and holidays.

Bus 1833 runs from Taipei Bus Station to Shuishe in three and a half to four hours, with only a handful of departures daily.

Under two hours from Taichung on Freeway 6. Car parks at Shuishe and Ita Thao fill early on weekends.

March to May and October to November: mild, clear, ideal for cycling.

Midweek in winter. Cold mornings, but often the clearest lake views.

Lunar New Year, the summer holidays and the September swim event.

Ferry from Shuishe to Xuanguang for still water and mist, then walk the path up to Xuanzang Temple.

On to Ita Thao and ride the ropeway up for the full lake panorama from the ridge.

Ita Thao village: Thao grilled meats, millet mochi and a cup of Sun Moon Lake black tea.

Cycle the Shuishe to Xiangshan path, then cross the water to Wenwu Temple on the north shore.

Ci'en Pagoda at golden hour, then dinner and a lakeside walk back at Shuishe.

Two to three hours south. Forest railway, sunrise sea of clouds and old-growth cypress. Some branch lines close for repairs.

Half an hour down the hill: a 150m modern Buddhist monastery, plus paper mills and Taiwan's best-known rice wine.