Jiufen · Things to do

One to two hours up from Jinguashi, finishing with a rock scramble through a cave onto a ridge over the Yin-Yang Sea.

Mineral runoff stains the falls ochre and turns the bay below two colours. A roadside stop on the way down to the coast.

A 1922 Japanese wooden villa built for a royal visit that never happened, inside the Gold Museum grounds at Jinguashi.

Jiufen's signature: hand-cut taro and sweet potato balls in iced or hot syrup. Grandma Lai's and Ah Gan Yi both have sea views.

Down the coast at Fulong, a 2km disused rail tunnel converted for cycling that opens onto the Pacific at the far end.