Taiwan
ASIA · 6 PLACES
Taiwan folds marble gorges, tea mountains and the world's best night markets into an island you can cross in a morning. Cheap high-speed rail and warm, unhurried cities make it absurdly easy.
Taipei
Night markets, temples and hot springs, plus every transport link on the island.
Jiufen
Stay over so you get the lantern-lit lanes after the day trippers leave.
Hualien
Pacific cliffs, whale watching and whatever of Taroko Gorge is open that week.
Sun Moon Lake
Ropeway, flat lakeside cycling and Thao Indigenous villages.
Tainan
The old capital and the food capital: 1,600 temples and dawn beef soup.
Kaohsiung
Harbour city pace, Lotus Pond pagodas and the Pier-2 arts quarter.
One month here
Night markets, temples and hot springs, plus every transport link on the island.
Stay over so you get the lantern-lit lanes after the day trippers leave.
Pacific cliffs, whale watching and whatever of Taroko Gorge is open that week.
Ropeway, flat lakeside cycling and Thao Indigenous villages.
The old capital and the food capital: 1,600 temples and dawn beef soup.
Harbour city pace, Lotus Pond pagodas and the Pier-2 arts quarter.
Three months here
Base for the north: Yangmingshan, Tamsui, Keelung and the Pingxi rail line.
Gold-mining coast, Jinguashi museum and the Teapot Mountain scramble.
East coast, Rift Valley hot springs, river tracing and Highway 11.
Cycle the shore, ride the ropeway and day trip down the Jiji rail branch.
Alishan — 4 nights
Forest railway, cypress groves and the sunrise sea of clouds.
Eat through the big five night markets, one different one each night.
Harbour, islands and a launchpad for Kenting and Hakka Meinong.
Taitung and Kenting — 11 nights
Tropical south and the quietest coast: Dulan, Green Island and coral beaches.
Festivals worth flying for
Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival · February or March
Thousands of paper lanterns released over the old Pingxi rail line. Falls with the Lantern Festival.
Yanshui Beehive Fireworks · February or March
Tainan's notorious rocket barrage fired into the crowd. Helmet and thick jacket required.
Taiwan Lantern Festival · February or March
The huge state-run lantern show. Host city changes every year, so check before booking.
Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage · March or April
Nine days and 300km on foot behind the sea goddess. Dates set annually by divination.
Keelung Ghost Festival · August or September
Month-long Zhongyuan rites, water lanterns floated out and a night parade in Keelung.
In an emergency
Emergency number 119 ambulance / 110 police
112 reaches emergency services from any mobile, even with no SIM. 0800-011765 is the 24hr tourist hotline. 113 abuse, 165 scams.
Language
Mandarin and Taiwanese Hokkien. English signage is good in cities, thin rurally.
Money
Cash still rules night markets and small shops. Get an EasyCard for metro, buses and 7-Eleven.
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