Bern · Nightlife

The two districts north of the river hold the bars Bern's under-forties actually use. Cheaper than the old town and open considerably later.

A squatted building turned semi-institutional culture centre by the station viaduct: concerts, a cinema, a cheap bar and a great deal of politics. Not to all tastes, which is the point of it.

The old town's vaulted cellars hold jazz rooms, wine bars and small clubs behind unmarked doors and a flight of stairs down.

The riverside lawns become an evening beer garden as the swimmers climb out. Entry is free, and the best-value drink in Bern is the one you carried in.

A former power station on the bank of the Aare running contemporary music and dance, with a riverside terrace that works from May onwards.