Colombo

A working temple crammed with donated relics, plus Bawa's serene lake pavilion a short walk away. Cover shoulders and knees.

The island's best single overview: Sigiriya frescoes, Kandyan regalia and the throne of the last king. Allow two hours.

Street after street of one-trade bazaars around the candy-striped Jami Ul-Alfar mosque. Go early, go light, watch your bag.

A scruffy seafront lawn that fills nightly with kite sellers, isso wade carts and families. Free, and the most Colombo thing there is.

South Asia's tallest tower. The deck opens 9am to 10pm weekdays and 11pm weekends; foreigners pay about US$20.

Bandaranaike International sits 35km north at Katunayake. Expressway taxi into the city takes 45-70 min. Prepaid cabs and buses at arrivals.

The coastal line to Galle and Matara runs normally and is the cheapest scenic ride out of Colombo Fort. Buy same-day at the station.

Cyclone Ditwah damage means trains toward Kandy terminate at Rambukkana. Use a bus, shuttle or private car for the hill country.

Dec-Mar is driest. The southwest monsoon soaks this coast May-Sep.

May-Sep, when the monsoon hits the west coast and rooms drop hard.

Mid-Dec to mid-Jan, plus Sinhala and Tamil New Year in April.

Start at the National Museum before the heat, then walk the shaded lanes of Cinnamon Gardens past Independence Square.

Tuk-tuk to Pettah. Lose an hour in the bazaar streets, then find the red-and-white Jami Ul-Alfar mosque.

Rice and curry at a local cafe, or crab at Ministry of Crab in the old Dutch Hospital if you booked ahead.

Gangaramaya Temple, then cross to Seema Malaka on Beira Lake. Cool off afterwards in the Barefoot garden cafe.

Sunset with the kite sellers on Galle Face Green, then rooftop cocktails at the Kingsbury's Sky Lounge.

Beach town beside the airport with a Dutch canal and a big fishing fleet. Handy first or last night; 30-45 min from CMB.

Colombo's own beach suburb, 30 min south by train. Faded colonial hotel on the headland and a run of seafood shacks.