The Valencia table — what to order and where the locals point.
Paella where it was born
Valencia is paella's home — the true one has rabbit, chicken and garrofó beans, lunch only.
La Pepica
The seafront institution since 1898 — Hemingway ate the arroz here.
Mercado Central
One of Europe's great market halls — jamón, oranges and horchata under art nouveau domes.
Horchata & fartons
The tiger-nut milk ritual — dunk the pastry, argue about the best horchatería.
Agua de Valencia
Cava, orange juice, gin and vodka in a pitcher. Approach with respect.