The Tenerife table — what to order and where the locals point.
Papas arrugadas
Wrinkled salt potatoes with red and green mojo — the Canary Islands on one plate.
Guachinches
Makeshift family wine houses in the north: garage tables, grilled meat, the year's own wine.
Fresh fish in Los Abrigos
The fishing village near the south airport lines its harbor with fish restaurants — go at sunset.
Barraquito
The layered coffee — condensed milk, Licor 43, cinnamon. Dessert pretending to be coffee.
Queso asado con mojo
Grilled cheese with palm honey or mojo — order it everywhere, compare notes.