Seoul's night is neighbourhood-shaped — Hongdae for students and live music, Euljiro for cheap beer on plastic stools, Itaewon and Gangnam for clubs — with a serious cocktail-bar scene layered over the top and a subway that stops around midnight.
Hongdae
The streets around Hongik University, thick with live-music venues, clubs and cheap bars, busiest from about 10pm on Friday and Saturday. Hongik University station on Line 2; work out how you are getting home before the last trains go.
Euljiro nogari alley
Rows of plastic tables set out in the street around Euljiro 3-ga, where old beer halls serve draught with dried pollack. The cheapest proper night out in central Seoul, and largely a warm-weather, outdoor affair.
Charles H.
Basement cocktail bar at the Four Seasons near Gwanghwamun, open daily 5pm–1.30am with last orders at 1am. Over-19s only, no sportswear or slippers; reservations are taken for the earlier seatings.
Magpie Brewing
Korean craft brewery founded in Itaewon in 2011. The Brewshop taproom in Yongsan opens daily 3–11pm and the Euljiro bar daily 5pm–1am; both close on the first Monday of the month.
Han River parks
Buying beer and fried chicken from a convenience store and sitting on the grass at Yeouido or Banpo is a completely normal Seoul night and costs almost nothing. The Banpo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain is lit in the evenings in the warmer months.