Seoul · Food

Charcoal, pork belly, scissors and lettuce wraps — order the soju ritual too.

Bindaetteok sizzling, mayak kimbap by the plate and knife-cut noodles among the ajummas.

The national pairing at midnight — every neighborhood has its champion.

Orange-tent street bars — tteokbokki, odeng broth and confessions.

Seoul's quiet other cuisine — book a temple-food dinner for the contrast.