Busan is a coastal city you cross by metro and short bus rides: a temple on the rocks, a hillside village of painted houses and the country's biggest fish market all sit within a day of each other.
Gamcheon Culture Village
Hillside neighbourhood of painted houses in Saha-gu, run by a residents' association whose information centres and exhibition spaces keep roughly 9am–4pm. Walking the lanes is free, but people live here, so keep off private steps and keep the noise down.
Haedong Yonggungsa
Buddhist temple built on the rocks above the sea north-east of Haeundae, unusual in Korea for being coastal rather than in the mountains. Reached by bus from Haeundae or Songjeong; it fills up by mid-morning, so go early.
Jagalchi Market
Korea's largest seafood market, on the Nampo-dong waterfront right beside Jagalchi station on Line 1. The usual routine is to buy fish downstairs and have it prepared upstairs; the market closes on some Sundays, so check before a special trip.
Haeundae Blueline Park
Beach train and two-seat Sky Capsule running the old coastal railway between Mipo and Songjeong, with services into the evening. The Sky Capsule regularly sells out — book online rather than turning up.
Busan Cinema Center
Home of the Busan International Film Festival in Centum City, under a very large cantilevered roof. It runs an arthouse cinematheque programme, performances and exhibitions year-round, not only during the festival.