The Busan table — what to order and where the locals point.
Jagalchi fish market
Pick it swimming downstairs, eat it sliced upstairs — Korea's biggest catch.
Dwaeji gukbap
Pork-and-rice soup — Busan's soul bowl, best in the specialist alleys.
Ssiat hotteok
Seed-stuffed brown-sugar pancakes at BIFF Square — the queue moves fast.
Milmyeon
The city's chewy cold noodle — wartime invention, summer religion.
Gijang crab & anchovy country
The coast north does snow-crab feasts and anchovy everything.
