Madeira · Food

Beef skewered on a laurel branch, hung over your table — with bolo do caco garlic bread.

Sugarcane rum, honey and citrus, muddled hard — the fishermen's cure for everything.

Funchal's market — taste ten passionfruit varieties, then dodge the pushy fish stalls.

Espada com banana — deep-sea fish meets island fruit; better than it sounds, everywhere.

Grilled limpets with garlic butter and a squeeze of lemon — the seaside starter.