Wrocław

One of Europe's largest medieval squares, ringed by candy-coloured houses. The beer cellar beneath the town hall dates back to 1273.

A 15 by 114 metre painting-in-the-round of the 1794 battle, in its own purpose-built rotunda. Timed entry; book ahead in summer.

The cathedral island, where a lamplighter still lights the gas lamps by hand each evening. Cross the Tumski bridge and follow him round.

Hundreds of small bronze krasnale hide on kerbs, walls and drainpipes, a legacy of the anti-communist Orange Alternative. Free.

A UNESCO-listed 1913 concrete dome, with the Multimedia Fountain outside: hourly water shows by day, lights and music after 18:00.

Copernicus airport is 10km west. Bus 106 by day and 206 at night reach the main station in about 30 minutes; a taxi takes 20.

PKP Intercity runs Kraków Główny to Wrocław Główny in around 3 hours. Warsaw takes about 3.5 hours on the direct express.

Long-distance coaches use the bus station underneath the Wroclavia mall, which is directly attached to the main railway station.

May to September, when the fountain runs and the islands fill up

November to March, apart from the December market

July, August and the Christmas market weeks

The Rynek first: the town hall's astronomical clock, the twin Hansel and Gretel houses, and coffee under the arcades.

Panorama Racławicka in its rotunda, then the National Museum next door if the weather has turned against you.

Cheap pierogi in the Old Town, or a canteen inside the Hala Targowa market hall over on Piaskowa island.

Cross the islands to Ostrów Tumski, then take a tram east to Centennial Hall for the fountain and the Japanese Garden.

Drinks in the Neon Side courtyard at Ruska 46, dinner nearby, then live jazz down the cellar stairs at Vertigo.

Poland's third-largest castle, about 70km south-west near Wałbrzych, with terraced gardens and unfinished wartime tunnels beneath it.

Two hours south to Szklarska Poręba or Karpacz: chairlifts, waterfalls and ridge walks along the Czech border.