The things worth doing in Warsaw, from the obvious landmarks to the ones locals actually rate.
Neon Museum
Now on the 4th floor of the Palace of Culture, entrance from Marszałkowska. Cold-war neon signs, 25zl, open daily from 11:00.
Copernicus Science Centre
Riverside hands-on science with 400 exhibits and a planetarium. Tickets are online only and sell out; buy several days ahead.
Polish Vodka Museum
Plac Konesera 1 in Praga, inside a restored distillery. Guided tour of the national spirit, ending in a tasting. Book online to save.
Vistula boulevards
The west bank is promenade, bars and boat piers; the east bank is protected riverside forest with beaches. Both free, both worth it.
Powązki Cemetery
Warsaw's atmospheric 18th-century necropolis: mossy tombs under chestnut avenues, an hour's slow walk and almost no other visitors.