Rebuilt from rubble and now Poland's boldest city: a reconstructed Old Town, brutal 20th-century history, and nightlife with real bite.
Old Town and the Royal Route
A UNESCO-listed reconstruction of the city the Nazis flattened. Walk Krakowskie Przedmieście from Castle Square down to Nowy Świat.
POLIN Museum
Anielewicza 6. A thousand years of Polish Jewish life, brilliantly staged. Closed Tuesdays, free on Thursdays; book a slot online.
Warsaw Rising Museum
Grzybowska 79. The 1944 uprising in overwhelming detail, 35zl. Closed Tuesdays; allow two hours minimum and book ahead.
Palace of Culture terrace
Stalin's gift still owns the skyline. The viewing terrace at 114m opens daily 10:00-20:00, with late Friday and Saturday sessions.
Łazienki Park
The royal park: peacocks, a palace on an island and the Chopin monument. Free to enter, and best in the last hour of daylight.
Fly Warsaw (WAW)
Chopin airport is 10km south, 20-25 minutes by S2/S3 train or bus 175. Budget flights often use Modlin (WMI), 40km north.
Train from anywhere
Warszawa Centralna is the national hub: Kraków 2.5h, Gdańsk 3h, Poznań 2.5h on PKP Intercity. Cheap fares go early.
Coach from Vilnius or Berlin
International coaches use Warszawa Zachodnia. Overnight from Vilnius or Berlin is slow, but the cheapest way in by a distance.
Best time to go
May, June and September, when the parks and river bars are open
Cheapest months
January to March: cold, cheap and made for museums
Priciest & busiest
June to August, plus the December market weeks
Morning
Coffee on Nowy Świat, then follow the Royal Route north to Castle Square and the rebuilt Old Town before the coaches land.
Late morning
POLIN or the Rising Museum. Pick one; both are heavy and both are essential. Book the time slot the night before.
Lunch
A milk bar or one of the city's Vietnamese canteens, both cheap. Praga's Koneser courtyard is the prettier alternative.
Afternoon
Up the Palace of Culture for the skyline, then down to the Vistula boulevards on the west bank for a riverside beer.
Evening
Drinks at Warszawa Powiśle in the old station kiosk, then jazz at Jassmine or the Praga courtyard clubs across the river.