Kraków

Hilltop castle and coronation cathedral above the Vistula. The grounds are free; each exhibition and the bell tower needs its own ticket.

Europe's largest medieval square. Climb the Town Hall Tower, then drop into the excavated Rynek Underground beneath the cobbles.

Synagogues, the round market hall on Plac Nowy and the city's best bars, all walkable. The Galicia Jewish Museum gives useful context.

Lipowa 4. Less about the film than about Kraków under Nazi occupation, 1939-45. Book online; 60zl, open late Tuesday to Sunday.

A day of remembrance, not sightseeing. Free entry cards must be reserved at visit.auschwitz.org; not recommended for under-14s.

Balice airport sits 11km west. A train runs to Kraków Główny in about 20 minutes; bus 208 and 300 are the cheaper option.

PKP Intercity express services link Warszawa Centralna and Kraków Główny in roughly 2.5 hours. Book early on intercity.pl for low fares.

International coaches pull into the MDA bus station beside Kraków Główny. Overnight runs are cheap, slow and usually full.

May, June and September: warm, long days, before the peak crush

November to March, minus the Christmas market fortnight

July, August and the weeks around the Christmas market

Start on Rynek Główny before the tour groups: coffee under the arcades, the Cloth Hall, and St Mary's trumpet call on the hour.

Walk up to Wawel for the castle grounds and cathedral, then down to the riverbank for the fire-breathing dragon statue.

Cheap and correct: a milk bar, or a pierogi kitchen in Kazimierz. Expect żurek, potato pancakes and a great deal of dill.

Cross into Kazimierz for the synagogues and Plac Nowy, or take a tram to Schindler's Factory for the occupation story.

Dinner in Kazimierz, jazz at Harris on the main square, then Alchemia's candlelit rooms and a zapiekanka at one in the morning.

UNESCO-listed mine 15km south-east, half an hour by train or bus. Guided routes only, 3km underground past salt-carved chapels.

70km west, about 1h40 by bus. Reserve a free entry card well ahead at visit.auschwitz.org and allow 3.5 hours for both sites.