The things worth doing in Gdańsk, from the obvious landmarks to the ones locals actually rate.
Amber Museum, Great Mill
The Baltic's gold, from prehistoric resin with insects inside to museum-grade jewellery, inside a restored medieval mill on the canal.
Westerplatte
Where the first shots of the Second World War were fired on 1 September 1939. Arrive by water tram down the Motława for the best of it.
Oliwa Cathedral organ
An 18th-century organ with moving angels and trumpeting figures, played in short daily recitals. SKM train or tram out to Oliwa.
Hala Targowa market hall
The market hall sits over an excavated Romanesque church; outside, stalls sell smoked fish, curd cheese and jars of pickles.
Shipyard walk
Beyond the Solidarity gate lies a half-derelict, half-reinventing yard of cranes, murals and artists' studios. Go before it is polished.