Twelve and a half thousand square kilometres of dune running north to south, up to 100m high, with Bedouin families, camel herds and a line of tented camps along the northern edge.
The whole point of coming. Camps run from mattress-and-bucket to air-conditioned suites, and most include dinner, breakfast and the dune transfer. Book ahead; there is no walk-up.
Camps run 4x4s or camels up to a high dune before dark. The sand shifts from pale cream in the north to deep orange further in, and changes by the minute at the end of the day.
Twenty to thirty minutes from about OMR 5, or two to three hours from about OMR 25, almost always at first or last light rather than the middle of the day.
Deflated tyres, a Land Cruiser and a driver who has done it before. Genuinely good fun, and the standard way visitors bury a rental car when they try it themselves.
An hour and twenty from Al Wasil: green pools in a rock gorge, free to enter, paved road all the way and no 4x4 needed. Swim covered up, t-shirt and shorts minimum.
About two and a half to three hours from Muscat, all on tarmac. These two villages are where the desert starts and where the camps meet guests.
Let the camp drive you in
Most camps run a 4x4 transfer from the village car park, and many will collect from Muscat for roughly OMR 30-50 per car each way. This is the sensible option.
Driving yourself in
A 4x4 is mandatory beyond the tarmac. Deflate to about 18-20 psi at Al Wasil, where there are tyre shops, and reinflate to 30-35 before rejoining the road. Do not go deep alone.
When to go
Best time to go
October-March: days in the high twenties to mid thirties, nights cold enough for a fleece.
Cheapest months
Late September and early April: shoulder heat, half-empty camps and the lowest rates.
Priciest & busiest
December-February and the Eid holidays, when the camps sell out to Muscat and Gulf weekenders.
If you've got one day
Morning
Leave Muscat early. The drive is about three hours with stops and the heat builds fast.
Late morning
Detour to Wadi Bani Khalid before midday and swim in the pools above the car park.
Lunch
Eat at the wadi restaurant or in Bidiyah. Nothing serious opens inside the sands themselves.
Afternoon
Deflate the tyres at Al Wasil, meet your camp's driver, and get in before the light goes.
Evening
Dune sunset, dinner at camp, then the sky. The Milky Way is visible to the naked eye out here.
Nearby & day trips
Sur
Ninety minutes from the eastern edge of the sands. Shipwrights still build wooden dhows by eye in the Sur yards, and the old lighthouse stands across the creek at Al Ayjah.
The only legal place in Oman to watch green turtles nest, on guided tours at 9pm and 5am. OMR 12 for tourists, booked ahead. Peak nesting runs May to September.