Maastricht · Things to do

Aldo Rossi's building on the Meuse in the Ceramique quarter, with a rocket-shaped dome over the river, showing old masters alongside deliberately non-mainstream contemporary work.

A separate network of defensive galleries at Waldeck, dug between 1575 and 1825, on a guided hour that has nothing to do with the marl caves.

A Cold War command post under the hill, opened for tours on selected dates only. Book when you see a date rather than when you arrive.

The thirteenth-century arches lit over the Meuse, old town on one bank and Wyck on the other. Two minutes' walk, and the picture of the city.

The world's leading art and antiques fair takes over the MECC every March. Even without buying anything, the city is at its most interesting that week, and at its most expensive.