Amsterdam · Food

From the market press, not the packet — caramel still flowing.

Raw, with onions, held by the tail — the haringhandel stands make it painless.

The Indonesian 'rice table' — Amsterdam's colonial-history feast, dozens of little dishes.

Centuries-old wood-dark pubs — bitterballen, a biertje, and no music but talk.

The Noordermarkt slab with whipped cream — worth the line, every time.