The things worth doing in Kathmandu, from the obvious landmarks to the ones locals actually rate.
Garden of Dreams
Neo-classical Rana garden restored to its 1920s form: pavilions, ponds and the Kaiser Cafe. Open 9am-9pm daily.
Krishnarpan at Dwarika's
Ceremonial multi-course Nepali tasting menu in Kathmandu's finest heritage hotel. Book ahead and dress up.
Bhojan Griha
Newari feast in a restored 150-year-old Rana mansion in Dillibazar, with nightly folk dance and music.
Sort your trekking permits
The Nepal Tourism Board office at Bhrikutimandap issues ACAP and national park permits; TIMS now comes via a registered agency.
Fire and Ice Pizzeria
Wood-fired Italian running in Thamel since 1995 - the reliable comfort meal before or after a trek.