Kathmandu
ASIA · FIESTA SIDE
Incense, gridlock and gilded pagodas. A medieval Newari capital wrapped around Thamel's neon trekking bazaar, and the launchpad for everything else.
The plan
Kathmandu Durbar Square
Palace complex of the Malla kings. Kasthamandap and Maju Deval are rebuilt; Gaddi Baithak access stays limited. NPR 1,000.
📍 Map & photos · €
Boudhanath Stupa
One of the world's largest stupas and the heart of Tibetan Kathmandu. Join the dusk kora circuit with the monks. NPR 400.
📍 Map & photos · €
Swayambhunath
365 steps to a hilltop stupa with painted eyes and a full-valley panorama. Guard your snacks from the macaques. NPR 200.
📍 Map & photos · €
Pashupatinath Temple
Nepal's holiest Hindu site on the Bagmati, with open-air cremation ghats. Non-Hindus view from the far bank. NPR 1,000.
📍 Map & photos · €
Patan Durbar Square
Across the river in Lalitpur: the valley's finest square, plus the excellent Patan Museum in the old royal palace.
📍 Map & photos · € · Website ↗
Getting there
Fly Kathmandu (KTM)
Tribhuvan is Nepal's only international airport. Visa on arrival in USD cash: roughly $30/$50/$125 for 15/30/90 days.
Taxi into Thamel
Thamel is about 6km from the terminal, 30-60 minutes in traffic. Use the prepaid taxi desk in arrivals or book a hotel pickup.
Overland from India
Buses cross at Sunauli (for Lumbini), Birgunj and Kakarbhitta. Long, rough and cheap; fly if your time matters.
When to go
Best time to go
October and November: clear skies, festival season, dry trails and mountain views.
Cheapest months
June to September monsoon - humid, hazy and wet, but hotel rates collapse.
Priciest & busiest
October to November, and the March-April spring trekking peak. Book beds early.
If you've got one day
Morning
Beat the crowds to Swayambhunath for sunrise over the valley, then descend through the prayer-flag forest.
Late morning
Taxi to Kathmandu Durbar Square. Find the Kumari Ghar courtyard and hope the living goddess appears at her window.
Lunch
Newari thali at Thamel House, or Middle Eastern floor-cushion dining at OR2K on Mandala Street.
Afternoon
Escape the horns in the Garden of Dreams, a restored Rana pleasure garden open 9am-9pm with a cafe in the pavilion.
Evening
Kora at Boudhanath as the butter lamps are lit, then back to Thamel for live rock at Purple Haze.
Nearby & day trips
Bhaktapur and Nagarkot
The valley's best-preserved city 40 minutes east, and a Himalayan sunrise ridge an hour beyond it.
Everest mountain flight
Buddha Air runs one-hour dawn scenic flights along the Himalaya from KTM. Everyone gets a window seat.
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