Bhaktapur · Sports & events

Bhaktapur district's best-known club, Madhyapur Youth Association from Thimi, plays in Nepal's second tier, the Martyr's Memorial B-Division; it was relegated from the A-Division in 2012-13 by a single point and has a big local following. A-Division matches and internationals are played at Dasharath Stadium in Kathmandu, about 13km west.

The standard valley day hike: take the sunrise at Nagarkot, 32km from Kathmandu, then walk the ridge down to Changu Narayan and drop into Bhaktapur. It is a half-day of easy downhill walking with the Himalaya behind you in clear weather.

Nagarkot and Dhulikhel are the eastern rim routes, on dirt trails that climb and drop between hill settlements. Bikes are rented by the day from shops in Thamel in Kathmandu rather than in Bhaktapur itself, so plan the hire before you come out.

Over nine days in mid-April around Nepali New Year, the upper and lower halves of the city haul the Bhairava chariot in opposite directions out of Taumadhi Square, and the winner takes it first. The pole raising at Lyosinkhel closes it. Watch from a terrace, not from beside the ropes — people are hurt here most years.

October to April is dry and clear, and the only stretch when the ridge walks and rides above Bhaktapur reliably deliver a mountain view. June to September is monsoon: fewer coaches in town, but the hills are cloud and mud.