Fes
AFRICA · SIESTA · THE OLDEST MEDINA
The world's largest car-free urban maze — a medieval city still doing business as usual.
The plan
Fes el-Bali, surrendered
Nine thousand alleys, no cars. Hire a guide the first morning, get lost the second.
Chouara tannery terraces
The famous dye pits from a leather-shop balcony — mint sprig included.
Al-Qarawiyyin & Bou Inania
The world's oldest university and the finest madrasa woodwork.
Ceramics of Fes blue
Watch zellige tile cutters work — the source of every fountain you've admired.
Borj Nord at sunset
The fort viewpoint where the whole medina turns gold.
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