The Essaouira table — what to order and where the locals point.
Port fish grills
Pick sardines and sea bream at the blue boats, grilled at the stalls beside them.
Sardines every way
The Atlantic's silver harvest — chermoula-stuffed is the local move.
Argan everything
The argan groves are here — amlou dip and cosmetic gold at cooperatives.
Medina café culture
Gnawa musicians and mint tea in the plaza cafés — Jimi's ghosts included.
Seafood bastilla
The sweet-savory pie gone maritime — Essaouira's twist on the classic.
