Zabljak · Where to stay

The junction with the supermarkets, bakery, bus stop and most of the guesthouses and konobas. Plain and not remotely pretty, but you can walk to the Black Lake trailhead in about fifteen minutes and buy food after a long day.

Chalets and small hotels strung along the road towards the national park entrance, under pine and a good deal quieter than the junction. Still walkable to town, and it puts the park gate on your doorstep.

About 6km out towards the lifts, per the national tourist board. It makes sense in ski season or if you have a car; without one you are dependent on taxis and there is nothing within walking distance.

Rooms in Zabljak are much of a muchness at every price. What actually changes the trip is wheels, because the ring road, Curevac and the Sedlo pass are not served by buses and the two daily coaches from the coast take about four hours.