Zabljak · With kids

EUR 3 an hour or EUR 8 a day from the park, and the road round to Ivan-do and the Black Lake is flat and largely traffic-free. Sizes are limited, so ask early in the day rather than after lunch.

The gentle alternative to Savin Kuk, with a ski school and ski service. Day passes are EUR 8 for adults and EUR 5 for children, weekly EUR 48 and EUR 30, and equipment hire runs from EUR 7.

EUR 1 on its own gets you into the park's visitor centre and its exhibition, and it is also where you ask whether a trail is passable. It is about the only indoor thing in Zabljak that is not a restaurant.

Snowshoes are EUR 4 a day and poles EUR 3 from the park, and the flat circuit of the Black Lake works in winter for anyone who can manage three or four kilometres. Cheaper and less frustrating than a first ski day for young children.

The town sits at 1,450m: nights are cold in midsummer, storms build over the massif most summer afternoons, and weather turns fast on the ridges. Zabljak is small, so anything beyond a health centre means a long drive to Niksic or Pljevlja.