Zabljak · Food

The two dishes to order: kacamak is potato and cornmeal beaten with kajmak and young cheese, cicvara the richer, creamier version. Both come out in an iron pan and one order comfortably feeds two people who have been walking.

The mountain's own produce is dried lamb, smoked pork and sheep's cheese matured in a skin, sold in the town's small shops and from roadside stalls out on the ring road. It travels well and makes the obvious trail lunch.

The supermarkets and bakery around the main crossroads are the last real shopping before the 80km ring road, where there is essentially nothing. At the Black Lake itself you get a couple of seasonal kiosks and no restaurant.

Meat cooked slowly under an iron bell buried in embers is the one dish worth planning an evening around, and most konobas want several hours' notice. Ask at lunchtime for dinner, and expect it to arrive as a shared tray rather than plated.