Ulcinj · Things to do

The icon: a 2,500-year-old fortified rock over the sea, with the Balsic church-mosque, a small museum and pirate history.

The Adriatic's longest continuous sand beach: 13km of shallow, warm water. The beach bus from the market costs about EUR 1.50.

Working salt pans turned reserve: flamingos, Dalmatian pelicans and 250 other species. Best March-May and September-November.

A sheltered horseshoe bay backed by one of the Mediterranean's oldest olive groves, some trees said to be 2,000 years old.

A tiny women-only cove with sulphurous spring water long believed to help fertility. Odd, local and genuinely ancient.