Ulcinj · Where to stay

Stone houses on the fortified rock, converted into small guesthouses and apartments above Mala Plaza. You walk everywhere in the old town and down to the small beach, but the lanes are steep and stepped, cars stop at the gate, and the promenade below is loud until late in August.

The working town above the small beach: bus station, the green market, bakeries and the cheapest beds in Ulcinj. You are five kilometres from Velika Plaza, so plan on the beach bus or a car if the long sand is why you came.

Hotels and apartment blocks behind the northern end of the thirteen-kilometre sand, within walking distance of the beach clubs and the kite schools. The trade-off is that the old town, the market and most of the year-round restaurants are a bus ride away.

Most beds in Ulcinj are privately let rooms and apartments rather than hotels, and prices roughly halve either side of late July and August. From November to March the beach strip closes almost entirely, so anything outside the town centre is a gamble in winter.