Montenegro's Albanian-speaking south: a pirate old town on a sea rock, minarets over the bazaar, and 13km of dark sand full of kite schools.
Ulcinj Old Town
A walled fortress town on a sea rock: ramparts, the Balsic church-mosque museum, and the old Slave Market square below.
Velika Plaza
Thirteen kilometres of dark, mineral-rich sand and shallow water. Beach clubs cluster at the north end; walk south for space.
Ada Bojana
A triangular river island of stilt restaurants, kite schools and a naturist section, 10km south where the Bojana meets the sea.
Ulcinj Salina
Fifteen square kilometres of salt pans, one of the Adriatic's great bird sites, with flamingos and pelicans on migration.
Learn to kitesurf
Shallow flat water and reliable afternoon wind make Velika Plaza a beginner's classic. Taster lessons from about EUR 60.
Fly Podgorica (TGD)
The closest Montenegrin airport, around 90 minutes by road. Summer buses and pre-booked transfers both serve the route.
Fly Tirana (TIA)
Roughly two hours away across the Albanian border, and often far cheaper to fly into than either Montenegrin airport.
Coastal bus
Several buses a day from Budva and Kotor: about EUR 7-8 and 2-3 hours from Kotor, with more frequent runs from Bar.
Best time to go
June and September: hot sea, beach clubs open, no August queues
Cheapest months
November to March, when the beach strip closes almost entirely
Priciest & busiest
Late July and August, when the region holidays here in force
Morning
Climb into the Old Town while it is still cool, walk the ramparts and drop into the museum in the church-mosque.
Late morning
Swim at Mala Plaza right below the walls, then browse the bazaar streets for burek and thick Albanian coffee.
Lunch
Drive out to Ada Bojana and eat river fish on a stilt terrace over the water: fish soup, then grilled sea bass.
Afternoon
Stay for the wind. Take a kite lesson on the flat water, or walk the empty southern end of Velika Plaza.
Evening
Back to a Velika Plaza beach club for sunset, then late seafood and drinks along the Mala Plaza promenade.