Lake Skadar · Sports & events

The park's own rates are €3 an hour for a single kayak, €5 for a double and €20 for a full day, hired at Virpazar or the Vranjina visitor centre. The channels are shallow, sheltered and closed to tour boats.

The park runs guided trips to the ornithological reserve: €160 for four hours for up to four people, €240 for groups of five to twelve, transport and guide included. Autumn and winter are the better seasons.

The tourism board's own suggestion is the country behind Rijeka Crnojevića, through villages with wine cellars and fortress ruins. The shore roads are quiet but narrow, and there is almost no shade in July.

The national park sells them from €5 a day up to €100 for the year, and you buy before you fish rather than after. Carp, bleak and eel are what comes out.

There is no professional team anywhere on the lake. The nearest is FK Budućnost of the Montenegrin first division, at the City Stadium in Podgorica, about 30km and half an hour from Virpazar.