Kotor · Food

The stalls on the waterfront just outside the walls, busiest in the morning: sheep's cheese in oil, njeguški pršut cured up on the Lovćen road, figs, honey and olive oil. Bring cash.

Family-run seafood konoba on Trg od Salate inside the Old Town, in a building that has been a restaurant since 1931 and under this name since 1996. Open 9am–11pm, kitchen noon–10pm; grilled fish and mussels in buzara.

The formal option, on the water at Šuranj looking back at the walls. Daily noon–11pm with the kitchen closing at 10.45pm, and the open terrace running April to November. Expensive by Montenegrin standards.

The row of family kitchens along the Dobrota promenade north of the walls — the same fish, terraces on the water and noticeably lower prices than inside the gates, for a 15 to 30 minute walk.