The Puerto Vallarta table — what to order and where the locals point.
Birria mornings
Jalisco's chile-braised goat — weekend birrierías serve it with consommé for dipping.
Fish on a stick
Pescado embarazado grilled on the beach at Los Muertos — smoke, lime, done.
Marisco carts
Aguachile and ceviche tostadas from the afternoon seafood carts.
Raicilla
Jalisco's other agave spirit, from the Sierra behind town — the local pour before tequila.
Malecón churros
Evening walk, sunset, cinnamon sugar — the nightly circuit.