Oaxaca rewards slow walking: a compact colonial centre, two market halls, and the Zapotec capital on a flattened hilltop twenty minutes out of town.
Monte Albán
The Zapotec capital on a levelled ridge about 10 km west of the city, 20–30 minutes by tour shuttle or taxi. Allow two hours, and note there is essentially no shade anywhere on the Gran Plaza.
Templo de Santo Domingo and Museo de las Culturas
The gilded Dominican church on Alcalá, plus the ex-convent museum behind it holding the Tomb 7 goldwork from Monte Albán. The church is free to enter; the museum closes on Mondays.
Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca
Garden of Oaxacan native plants in the ex-convent grounds beside Santo Domingo, visitable only on a guided tour at set times in Spanish or English. The garden office answers Monday to Friday, 10:00–17:00.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juárez
Two adjoining covered markets a block south of the Zócalo: Benito Juárez for chocolate, chapulines and quesillo, 20 de Noviembre for the smoke-filled meat aisle where you buy tasajo by weight and have it grilled in front of you. Daytime trade only.
Museo Textil de Oaxaca
Textile museum at Hidalgo 917 in the Centro Histórico, with rotating shows of Oaxacan and international weaving and a programme of dyeing and crochet workshops. Small, quiet, and worth an hour.